Buckhorn Draw Road -
Into the Heart of the Swell
One of our Most Scenic Backroads

By Dave Webb

The Swell offers something for everyone. There are many areas where you can make short hikes through spectacular canyons — the hikes can be as easy or difficult as you choose. The Swell also offers wonderful mountain biking opportunities.

And you don't have to get out of your vehicle to enjoy the rugged canyons. Roads probe the Swell from all directions. Most are rough, providing challenge to four-wheel drive enthusiasts. But a few are well maintained gravel suitable for touring in a family car. All the roads lead somewhere — usually to a dead end at an old mine... or a spectacular canyon... or a sheer dropoff.

The Swell covers a large area, from near Price on the north almost to Hanksville on the south. Until modern times it posed a formidable barrier to east-west travel. Only two roads actually cross it — I-70 which cuts right through its middle and the "Green River Cutoff," a dirt road stretching between Castle Dale and Highway 6, just north of Green River.

If you want to see some incredible country from the air conditioned comfort of your Lincoln, drive I-70 from Green River to Salina. Several rest stops are provided in scenic areas. You'll have breathtaking views into Eagle, Devils, Black Dragon and several other deep, sheer-walled canyons — the likes of which are found nowhere else on earth.

If you want to get to know the Swell on a more personal basis — and still remain in your car — drive the Buckhorn Draw Road, from Cleveland (just south of Price) to I-70. Also drive the spur down to the Wedge Overlook. These are maintained gravel/dirt roads, washboardy in spots, but nothing which will pull your muffler off. They will guide you through the changing faces of the Swell, from dry desert to juniper and pinion trees to streambeds where a trickle of water breaths life into the soil and lush vegetation chokes the canyon bottoms. You'll see rolling hills give way with little warning to sheer dropoffs and massive stone walled canyons.

From the Wedge Overlook you can look out over the Little Grand Canyon of the San Rafael. It's a majestic viewpoint which does indeed resemble the world-famous Colorado River chasm. When you approach the edge — carefully — and peer over the side, the river hundreds of feet below, and then gaze out at the distant mesas, you realize there is nothing "little" about this canyon. The big difference between The Wedge and other scenic vistas, such as Dead Horse Point, is the solitude. Your party will probably be the only one on the rim.

In a few spots throughout the Swell, including the Wedge, vehicle travel is restricted to established roads. That includes mountain bikes. But rough roads follow the rim in both directions, providing the opportunity for a thrilling ride. Camping at the Wedge is restricted to designated campsites. There are plenty of sites scattered throughout the juniper and pinions along the rim. But there are no facilities — no toilets or water. And there is no fee to visit or camp there.

Farther down the Buckhorn Draw Road you will come to a cliff face which has many ancient Fremont Indian pictographs and petroglyphs. There is a turnout, sign and fence, making the spot easy to find. This is one of the better places to view Fremont rock art. Unfortunately, many people have carved or written their names on or near the ancient figures.

The San Rafael Campground is located along the Buckhorn Draw Road, where it crosses the river. The river is small and muddy in that area — there are no sport fish — and the campground offers little shade or comfort. (There are pit toilets, but no drinking water.) It's a fine place to spend the night while enroute, but not an inviting place to relax for the afternoon. It is located close to some wonderful hiking and biking areas. In several areas along the road above the campground there are steep dirt hills — the kind kids love to challenge on bikes. There are also old roads and trails into many side canyons which can be explored on foot or bike.

This is hot, dry country and you need to be prepared for emergencies. Let someone know where you are going and when you plan to return. Carry water, food and emergency supplies. If your vehicle breaks down on a backroad it may be days before someone happens along that way.

The ideal time to hike the Swell is spring or fall, when temperatures are moderate. Morning or evening hikes are enjoyable during the summer. Carry water if you are hiking any distance.

River hikes are popular during the heat of summer, and the San Rafael River offers some good ones. The San Rafael Gorge, Upper and Lower Black Boxes and the lower river near Black Dragon Canyon are wonderful hikes. A good guide book is essential. Several books in area libraries and bookstores describe these hikes. One of the best is Michael Kelsey's Hiking and Exploring Utah's San Rafael Swell.