Castle Valley and the La Sal Mountain Loop
A scenic drive in the wilderness with red rock hikes and alpine lakes

By Sonja McClure
(See more of Sonja's photos from this trip)

A journey through Castle Valley and the La Sal Mountain range, reaching an impressive 12,721 ft. elevation, includes both desert and mountain terrain providing a nice visual contrast of red rock and green forests.

A 60-mile long loop that starts and ends in the heat of the desert, with a cool climate change of the mountains in-between. How many states can boast of containing two landscapes so radically different in the same region?

In early July, we began our trip a few miles north of Moab. We turned off Highway 191 onto Highway 128 that runs along the almighty Colorado River, a mammoth river flowing swiftly beside canyon walls. Because of dangerous currents, swimming is not recommended in most areas.

At the Castle Valley road, we took a right onto the Loop road. The area includes, two distinct landmarks called the Priest and Nuns that are on the left, and the Castleton Tower spire that stands separately on the right. The elevation is approximately 4,800 ft. A large collapsed salt anticline formed Castle Valley. "La Sal" in Spanish means salt.

Only a few campsites existed, so our arriving early was the best bet to secure a spot. Camping was free though remote. We were the only campers besides many big red bugs that buzzed in the trees and scattered when we walked near them.

The silhouettes of the rock formations were a beautiful backdrop for a campsite in the twilight hours. It was a moonless night; the stars were bountiful, bright and amazing. We spent an evening surrounded with the simplicity of the desert.

A combination of sun and heat woke us up early and soon shade was our best friend, precious and much sought after. In the desert, it was best to do the majority of hiking in the morning or early evening because it was summer. It was important to stay hydrated so we drank plenty of water.

Taking a trip to the desert in July wasn't something we usually did, but by heading to higher elevation in the mountains during the middle of the day we were able to escape the heat. We normally take trips to southern Utah during the spring and fall when the temperature drops much lower.

We took a short hike marked with cairns up near the base of Castleton Tower, an easy hike not more than a mile long. The area is popular with rock climbers. There are rock climbing routes, but we didn't bring any gear so we tried bouldering instead. For a more strenuous hike, we could have climbed up the sandstone to the other landmarks as well.

Next, we drove into the La Sal National Forest. Gaining elevation, the road ascends up and above and the canyon country below shrinks into the distance. Looking down at the breathtaking panoramic view really gave the name Castle Valley much more worth from that angle.

At the higher altitude, the awesome mix of desert and alpine started to happen. With a glance behind us, it was barren and open and looking forward the vegetation became dense with aspens, large pines and junipers.

Looking out the car window we could see the tallest peak of the La Sals towering above the thick tree line, one moment it was enshrouded in clouds and the next it was perfectly visible. So quickly did the weather change.

White and purple flowers flourished on the road edge. Soon we bumped into the strangest thing. Hundreds of wooly looking caterpillars were crossing the road. It was hard not to hit them as we drove along. We had never seen so many of them together in one place before.

We had the option to turn off at Warner Lake but continued farther to the larger Oowah Lake. A picturesque lake encircled by trees. The elevation is 8,800 ft. We went on a nice stroll around the lake and found a variety of wildflowers.

A total of six campsites were available. It is a first come first serve basis. The trailhead was located across from the campground. We wanted to try to go on one of the longer hikes but ran out of time.

Continuing on the scenic highway, the lush green alpine landscape started to mesh and change into rock and sand again.

Coming out of the mountains and into the valley, we came to Ken's Lake, which completed our loop. Located approximately three miles from Highway 191, Ken's Lake is a reservoir with a campground that offers 31 sites.

Back in the summer heat, we fulfilled our urges to cool off and went swimming at Ken's Lake. The water was cool, no doubt about that, but refreshing. A time for relaxation, we had a picnic and sunbathed, an excellent way to enjoy the afternoon.

Ken's Lake is a good recreational destination that allows fishing and non-motorized boats, and wasn't too crowded.

The entire loop was paved except at Oowah Lake there was a dirt road. It is possible to drive the loop in one day from start to finish. It would be about a half days journey. It takes approximately 3-4 hours to drive from Castle Valley, through the La Sal's, to Ken's Lake on the outskirts of Moab. However, I recommend splitting the trip into 2-3 days in order to stop and explore the Castle Valley and Oowah Lake vicinities.

If I could do the trip again, I would camp and hike at Oowah Lake and check out neighboring Warner Lake area as well.

My favorite part of the trip was the way the climate changed at different altitudes. The hot sun beating down on us in the desert made us feel exposed, with lack of shelter and shade, but our being able to explore the rich red sandstone was worth facing the hard elements. Later the landscape transformed into trees, which gave us an appreciation we might not have had if we weren't just in the opposite realm of the desert.

My view of Castle Valley was another favorite. A desert is amazing for the distance one can see. Nothing obstructs the view for miles in all directions. The openness provides a kind of mental release that the city hinders. The mind has room to expand and feel free here. All of the hustle and bustle of civilization is dulled in nature. No one directs the growth of nature. Trees grow tall, rocks collapse, floods come through, but it is all natural; animals roam freely and a woman may roam free in nature too.

About the author: I am a writer who enjoys the outdoors, travel and dance. I am a University of Utah graduate with a degree in Communication. I have lived in Washington, which is like a second home to me. I have explored Southern Utah for the past 10 years in areas such as, Lake Powell, Capital Reef, Goblin Valley and Moab.

Copyright Sonja McClure