San Juan Islands
Boating Washington's Island Paradise

The excitement of the yachting vacation of a lifetime had me out of bed at the crack of dawn. I peered out the large windows of our 60-foot chartered motor yacht and saw the glassy, glistening bay waters. As the golden sunrise slowly began to ease its way over the pine tree covered islands, the water transformed from a deep passionate blue into a vibrant red. The steam was mystical as it lifted itself, enhancing every moment. The dawn of another day in paradise had begun.

Washington state's magical San Juan Islands are composed of hundreds of islands ranging from rocky outcrops to large, forested mountainous masses. The waters are rich with sea life. Wildlife surrounds you on both land and in the sea. It is truly a piece of heaven.

Imagine soaking in serene golden sunsets, as bright, starry nights appear and the water gently laps against the hull to sing you to sleep at night. This is just a small taste of what to expect on a San Juan Islands yachting adventure. I have had the opportunity to experience these vast and enchanting island seaward passages many times and each time, my love deepens for these outdoor wonders.

The small Washington town of Ancortes provided the best gateway to the San Juan Islands. (Here you will find all that you need to fill your nautical dream vacation, starting with a world-renown charter company called Ancortes Yacht Charters. I have had nothing but the best of hospitality from its staff. Their concern for your enjoyment and safely go a long way beyond the norm of most charter companies. According to a Cruising World magazine reader poll, they rank number one in the world.)

As the dawn progressed, my family members started to awaken. I could hear movement below in the lower cabins of our vessel. This was the beginning of a family outing that had been on the schedule for over a year. Excitement had filled the air when we arrived and boarded the night before.

The smell of fresh-ground coffee started to flow throughout the boat. I stepped below to get a cup, to savor the rest of the sunrise experience. I made my way to the upper fly bridge and sat in the captain's chair, enjoying the salt air and the awakening of the seagulls. I began to hear a bit of splashing at the aft end of the boat. I peered over the rear deck to see several seals playing in the morning sun. What a wonderful way to start out a great day at sea. By this time, the rest of my family had arisen, ready to begin our magical mystery tour into this Northwest oasis.

My father and brother-in-law were great deck hands. In no time, we were untied and off to sea. The sun had burned off all the mist and the water was a deep blue color. Our first destination was the incredible city of Victoria, Canada, just northwest of the San Juan Islands. It is a city of British tradition full of exciting things to see. Going there by boat always adds a new dimension to the whole experience.

We had been cruising for a little over an hour, completely engulfed by the mystical grandeur of this wonderland with its gallery of magnificent pictures unfolding around every bend, when we reached the lower tip of San Juan Island. We found ourselves gazing over the Strait of Juan de Fuca, with a calm, shining sea ahead. I spotted a whale just ahead of us, and quickly backed off the throttles to get a closer look. It was poetry in motion as he circled around the boat a few times. Our crew was in awe. That was the first whale my daughter had ever seen. It filled me with joy to see the look on her face.

The orca whale calls the San Juans home. Orcas are also called killer whales because of their sharp teeth and appetite for sea lions, seals and other warm-blooded creatures. These amazing mammals are really not whales, but part of the dolphin family. They are friendly, affectionate, and have keen intellect as well as superior learning ability, and are often star performers at aquariums. But there is no better place to see them than in their home environment.

The excitement ended as the whale moved on. We began to cross the strait. My sister came topside and sat down beside me. We shared our enthusiasm of our first whale sighting. My sister is a wonder, filled with spirit and faith, so I mentioned jokingly that she pray for more whales. She smiled. It wasn't five minutes later that I stared, spotting a group of fins ahead, and veered the boat in their direction. Moments later, they were jumping and frolicking in front of, and alongside the boat. It was the most amazing thing I had ever seen! Never in all my years of visiting the San Juans had I seen so many whales.

Captain and crew shared the exhilaration. What a fantastic moment for everyone on board, especially the kids. I still had the boat up on plane with about a 10-foot wake behind us, when an even more incredible thing began to happen. The whales started surfing our wake! They were halfway in the water and halfway out. Their magnificent composure was breathtaking. The crew was in shock; no one was even able to get a photograph. It was as if we were all living the most fascinating moment of our lives! It all happened so fast, I momentarily forgot this was going beyond whale watching guidelines. I slowed to a speed with no wake and we found ourselves surrounded by orca whales. It was like being in a Free Willy movie, only much better. After a few hours of heart-pounding whale watching, we decided to move on to Victoria.

Navigating in these waters used to be more complicated, but now, with the use of GPS, radar, marine radios and cell phones, cruising is safe and enjoyable. As you reach the mouth of Victoria Harbor you need to call in to clear Customs. The Canadian Customs employees tell you which dock to use. You call them on their special phone; everyone but the captain stays onboard until you are cleared, after which you're free to roam the country. (Ask your charter company for more details.)

Victoria is a seaside city with a wide variety of things to relish. It's more than just a bit of Olde England. The bonding of soul and water is a predominant theme here, with fountains in nearly every park and square. The life-giving sea has carved many bays, inlets, and spectacular coves alongside of which elegant hotels and meandering walkways have been erected. Hanging flower baskets, white global cluster street lamps, bright red double-decker London buses, combined with beautifully made vessels of many descriptions, tell you right away that this is no ordinary city.

The centerpiece attraction is the Provincial Legislature Building, designed in 1898 by Francis Rattenbury, architect of the late 19th century. In the evening hours, the harbor brilliantly reflects the ambient lighting projected by this work of art. There is not a better mood-setting marina anywhere on earth. Also surrounding the harbor is the famous Empress Hotel, built by the Canadian Pacific Railway to ensure their travelers luxurious accommodations. This is the most enchanting place one could ever dock a boat and soak in the culture. You really need to spend at least a few days - there is so much to do and see.

Your Victorian experience is never complete without a visit to the world-famous Butchart Gardens – exquisite Japanese gardens and rockeries, peaceful and pleasing to the eye. The climate here allows the shrubs and succulents, mass flowers, and heathers to create patterns of life throughout the year.

When returning to the city, you'll want to check out all the great restaurants and shops. The best way to do this is by Victorian horse carriage - they roam throughout the city, day and night.

After the most enjoyable cultural site-seeing events one could ever encounter, we had to roll up the dock lines and head back to sea again.

Our next destination was Roche Harbor, just a couple of hours away at cruising speed. We went back through the Strait of Juan De Fuca and over the top of San Juan Island, and found one of the quaintest, most heart-warming experiences imaginable.

Roche Harbor is a picturesque, turn-of-the-century hamlet. The sheltered deep-water harbor serves as a boater's paradise and is home to many luxurious watercraft. This resort features a beautifully manicured garden and one of the finest restaurants in the islands. It also hosts the Hotel De Haro, one of the island's main attractions, boasting such famous clientele as Theodore Roosevelt and William Taft.

My favorite structure in the area is "Our Lady of Good Voyage Chapel," a little white church on the hill that overlooks the harbor. In the morning hours, its bells produce soothing peals that can be heard throughout the harbor. I love to smell the salt air, listen to the seagulls, and watch the sunset from its porch.

A serenity of the soul and a sharpening of the senses have always seemed more abundant right here. This place is passionate and has a huge magnetic pull that keeps me coming back to savor its peaceful beauty and aquatic surroundings.

In the nearby bays, you find some of the best crabbing in the islands. Catching a crab out of the ocean and preparing it immediately, using plenty of butter, creates a treat you do not want to miss. You just bait your crab trap with a little chicken, fish, or even a hot dog, and they come running. Pull up the trap every 20 to 30 minutes and it's time for a crab bake. That is another great thing about a boat vacation; you have your choice of succulent restaurants or barbeques on your personal yacht.

This harbor has always been the hardest one for me to leave. If there is a place on earth where my soul can rest – a place where my spirit can be transformed and become part of a greater whole – this is it.

But it was time for the journey to our next and final destination, Orcas Islands Rosario Resort. In 1905, Robert Moran built a family mansion there after he made his fortune as a Seattle shipbuilder. The mansion was completed with 12-inch thick concrete walls and decorated with teak and mahogany furnishings, fine art and sculptures. Today, the mansion is the showpiece of Rosario Resort. Pipe organ concerts are performed daily at noon. The resort includes a spa, gym and tennis courts, and a restaurant that overlooks the bay. The restaurant always makes this stop in our trip inviting. (It is best to get moorage (docking space) reservations early; tying up here allows you to have full use of the amenities.)

When we first pulled into the harbor, we spotted six deer roaming the well-groomed grounds. Our kids quickly walked over to get a closer look. They were excited to discover the deer would eat right out of their hands. It reminded me of an image out of the Garden of Eden.

As night fell, the stimulating arrangement of the resort lighting danced off the sea. We were compelled to descend in our small dinghy for a midnight troll around the bay. The romance from the glistening waters was like something out of a fairy tale.

We spent the last two nights on anchor. Strong memories, as if etched in stone, were created as we watched the children play, catch crabs, net shrimp and feed seals off the back of the boat.

As light from the setting sun spread throughout the sky, it created an image that seemed to be a blend of red, orange and purple watercolors. Silence filled the air as we soaked in this last postcard setting. The moon began to rise and everything was silver-plated in this peaceful bay. The night reminded us that there is magic in these islands. Our craft sat gracefully at anchor as another incredible adventure in the San Juan Islands ended.

Travelers notes:

There are endless bays and anchorages within the San Juan Islands. Many are great fisheries with a splendid combination of salmon, halibut, herring, cod, tuna, shark and sturgeon. Shellfish include crab, clams, oysters, shrimp, scallops, mussels and crayfish. To learn more about fishing and crabbing, ask your charter company to send you information.

Call Anacortes Yacht Charters and they will assist you in making your cruise a once-in-a-lifetime experience, just like the one I've shared with you. Arranging an island serenading Pacific Northwest adventure takes about the same energy as arranging a cruise anywhere. Contact these people; it could change your life. It did mine. (800) 233-3004 or www.ayc.com.

Copyright Guy Robertson