cathedral in the desert powell

Also see our Cathedral In The Desert overview and video.

By Dave Webb
June 3, 2022

Cathedral In The Desert is a spectacular spot in Clear Creek Canyon, off the Escalante Arm of Lake Powell.

  • About 35 miles by lake from Bullfrog Marina
  • About 70 miles by lake from Wahweap

When John Wesley Powell made his famous voyage down the Colorado River, he noted the natural beauty of the area and coined its name.

When Lake Powell filled, the cathedral was engulfed and essentially lost. The enigmatic waterfall at the end of the cathedral was totally covered by the deluge. Boaters would glide over it without even knowing it existed.

With the lake now at historic low water levels, the cathedral has re-emerged and has become an icon representing what was lost under the big lake.

Many people want to visit the cathedral because of its scenic beauty and also because of its symbolic significance.

It is relatively easy to visit the canyon by boat. Some people want to visit using a human-powered vehicle and so they choose to kayak. It is a long voyage by kayak but it can be done by strong, experienced paddlers. Others want to hike overland. The overland route is very difficult and requires specialized knowledge and gear. Only experienced canyon country hikers should attempt the trek.

The Escalante arm of the lake is considered one of the most scenic and it is worth making the trip.

Where to launch a boat

  • Bullfrog is the recommended starting point.

  • In the Wahweap area, launch at Antelope Point, if that ramp is open. That will save a few miles.

Where to launch a kayak

  • Halls Crossing (across the lake from Bullfrog)

  • Stanton Creek, on the Bullfrog side (four-wheel-drive needed)

  • Bullfrog ramp

Launching at Halls will save you almost three miles (compared to the Bullfrog ramp).

Hybrid boat and kayak

Our choice is to use a boat to carry kayaks down-lake to a base camp near the mouth of the Escalante arm, then paddle to explore the area. Camping spots change with the lake level, but there are usually great spots in the area.

Tips

  • Watch the weather. Powell can get mean during storms.

  • Expect afternoon wind. Mornings are often perfect but afternoons are almost always windy.

  • Stay close to shore. Water will be calmer there and you won’t have to deal with as many boats and jet skis

  • Carry a good map of the lake. We recommend the Stan Jones map. You can buy it at the marina stores, or get it on Amazon.

You always need to watch for underwater hazards, which change from season to season as the lake level rises and falls. Try to stay over the main channel, as much as possible. Marker buoys are placed to show the channel. In general, dark water is deep and therefore safe and lighter water is shallow.

Buoys show the names of most (but not all) major side canyons. Mile marker buoys show the distance uplake from the dam. A good map will show the nearest mile marker for major attractions.